Leopard geckos are the classic first reptile for a reason. They stay small, they are calm enough to handle, they do not need a huge enclosure or complicated lighting, and with the right setup they can live for 20 years. But “easy” does not mean “no setup” — most problems new keepers run into come from the enclosure being wrong on day one, not from the gecko itself.

This guide covers the full setup, feeding, handling and health basics for a first leopard gecko, so you can get the enclosure right before the animal arrives.

Leopard gecko basics

• Adult size: Usually 7–10 inches long, including the tail
• Lifespan: Commonly 15–20 years with good care
• Temperament: Generally calm and tolerant of handling once settled
• Activity: Crepuscular — most active at dawn and dusk, and often out in the evening
• Space needed: A long, low enclosure matters more than height; leopard geckos are ground-dwellers, not climbers

That lifespan is the first thing to plan for. A leopard gecko is a commitment for well over a decade, so buy for the adult animal and the setup it will live in for years, not just for the small gecko you bring home.

Enclosure: long and low, with three hides

Leopard geckos live on the ground, so floor space matters far more than height. A tall tank wastes space they will never use; a long, low one gives them room to move between warm and cool areas, which is how they control their own temperature.

What to aim for:

• A 20-gallon long enclosure (about 30×12×12 in) is a widely used minimum for one adult; bigger is fine, smaller is not
• A secure lid — leopard geckos are not great climbers, but a lid keeps out pets, children and drafts
• Three hides at minimum: one on the warm side, one on the cool side, and one humid hide in the middle or on the warm side for shedding
• A shallow water dish, refreshed daily, placed on the cool side
• A few low decorations — flat rocks, cork bark, low branches — for cover and texture, but nothing tall enough to fall from

A bare tank with a single hide is not a leopard gecko setup. If the gecko has nowhere to hide on both ends of the enclosure, it will stay stressed and stay hidden. See enclosure types and sizes in our Enclosure & Habitats category.

Heating: a warm side and a cool side

Leopard geckos need a temperature gradient — a warm side to digest and a cool side to rest — and they get most of their heat from below, through their belly, rather than from a basking lamp above.

Temperature:

• Warm side floor: roughly 88–92°F (31–33°C)
• Cool side: roughly 70–77°F (21–25°C)
• Nighttime: can drop a little, but the warm side should not fall below about 70°F (21°C)

How to heat it:

• An under-tank heat mat on one side of the enclosure, covering about a third of the floor, is the standard setup for leopard geckos
• Every heat source must be controlled by a thermostat — never run a heat mat unregulated, as it can overheat and burn a gecko that sits on it
• Measure the floor temperature with a digital thermometer or infrared temperature gun, not by guessing from the air temperature
• A low-wattage ceramic heat emitter can help on cold nights if your room drops below the range above

Leopard geckos do not need a basking lamp, and they do not need UVB lighting in the way a bearded dragon does. Many keepers provide low-level UVB as part of a more natural setup — if you do, follow the manufacturer’s distance and replacement guidance. See heat and light types in our Heating & Lighting category.

Substrate: safe and simple wins

Substrate is where new keepers make the most avoidable mistakes. Loose, dusty or fine-particle substrates can be swallowed while the gecko is hunting, and that can cause impaction — a blockage that can be serious.

Beginner-safe choices include:

• Paper towel — the simplest, safest choice for a first gecko, especially a juvenile, because it is easy to clean and makes health problems easy to spot
• Reptile carpet or tile — easy to clean, no loose particles, and a natural look once the gecko is settled
• A reptile-safe soil or sand-free mix, once you are confident with feeding (feed in a dish or separate container to reduce the chance of swallowing substrate)

Avoid fine sand, calcium sand, walnut shell and other loose, dusty substrates for a first gecko. Whatever you choose, spot-clean daily and do a full clean regularly. See the options in our Substrate & Decor category.

Feeding: insects, dusted and gut-loaded

Leopard geckos are insectivores. They eat live insects — not vegetables, not prepared diets — and the insects they eat are only as nutritious as what those insects were fed.

Feeding guide:

• Offer appropriately sized live insects: crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms and black soldier fly larvae are the usual staples
• Offer only insects no wider than the space between the gecko’s eyes
• Juveniles eat daily; adults usually eat every two to three days
• Dust insects with calcium with D3 at most feedings, and use a multivitamin once or twice a week
• Keep a small dish of plain calcium without D3 in the enclosure so the gecko can lick it as needed
• Gut-load feeder insects for 24 hours before offering them — feed the insects well, and your gecko gets the benefit
• Always provide fresh water, and do not feed wild-caught insects, which can carry pesticides or parasites

A gecko that is settling into a new home may eat little for the first few days. That is normal if it is otherwise alert and active. If a gecko stops eating for weeks and loses weight, or its tail becomes noticeably thin, ask a reptile veterinarian. See diet and supplement types in our Food & Supplements category.

The tail tells you how your gecko is doing

A leopard gecko stores fat in its tail, so the tail is a quick health check: a plump tail means the gecko is eating well; a thin tail means it is not.

Leopard geckos can also drop their tail if grabbed or badly startled. Unlike some lizards, a leopard gecko’s tail does regrow, but the regrown tail is shorter, smoother and never quite the same. Avoid the problem in the first place: never grab a gecko by the tail.

Handling: short, low and calm

Leopard geckos are one of the more handleable lizards, but they still need to settle in first, and they are quick enough to bolt if startled.

How to handle well:

• Give a new gecko a few days to settle in before handling, and let it eat first
• Handle in the evening, when the gecko is naturally awake, not during the day when it is sleeping
• Keep handling low over a soft surface, such as a bed or a sofa, so a jump is not a fall
• Let the gecko walk from hand to hand rather than gripping it, and never grab it by the tail
• Keep early sessions short — a few minutes — and build up as the gecko becomes confident

Signs your gecko is settling in well include eating regularly, exploring in the evening, shedding cleanly in one piece, and passing normal droppings. Wash your hands before and after handling.

Shedding, and when to worry

Leopard geckos shed regularly as they grow, and a healthy gecko usually sheds cleanly and eats the shed skin. Stuck shed — most often on toes, the tail tip or around the eyes — is usually a humidity problem, and that is what the humid hide is for.

Keep the humid hide damp (sphagnum moss or damp paper towel) and check it every few days. If you see stuck shed, a short, shallow lukewarm soak or a damp paper towel in a ventilated container can help loosen it — but do not pull shed off the skin, as that can injure the gecko. If shed stays stuck, toes look swollen, or the gecko stops eating, contact a reptile veterinarian.

Common beginner mistakes

1. No thermostat on the heat mat. An unregulated heat mat can overheat and burn a gecko. A thermostat is not optional.
2. Loose sand or calcium sand as substrate. Fine particles get swallowed while hunting and can cause impaction.
3. One hide, or hides on one side only. A gecko needs to hide on both the warm and cool ends, plus a humid hide for shedding.
4. Feeding insects that are too big. If it is wider than the space between the gecko’s eyes, it is too big.
5. Skipping calcium and vitamin dusting. Undusted insects lead to calcium deficiency and metabolic bone disease over time.
6. Handling too soon, or during the day. Let the gecko settle in, and handle it when it is awake.
7. Cohabiting males, or keeping two geckos together without a plan. Males will fight, and even females can compete and stress each other. House leopard geckos individually unless you have a specific, well-researched reason not to.

Leopard gecko FAQ

Are leopard geckos good pets for beginners?

Yes — for most beginners they are one of the easiest reptiles to keep, provided you give them a proper temperature gradient, three hides, and dusted insects. They stay small, tolerate handling, and do not need a basking lamp or a huge enclosure.

Do leopard geckos need a heat lamp?

Usually not. They get their heat from below through an under-tank heat mat controlled by a thermostat. A heat lamp is not required and can dry out the enclosure.

Do leopard geckos need UVB lighting?

Not in the same way a bearded dragon does, and many keepers keep them successfully without it. Some keepers provide low-level UVB as part of a more natural setup — if you do, follow the manufacturer’s distance and replacement guidance.

What do leopard geckos eat?

Live insects — crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms and black soldier fly larvae — dusted with calcium and a multivitamin. They do not eat vegetables or prepared diets.

How often should I feed a leopard gecko?

Juveniles daily, adults every two to three days. Offer only as much as the gecko eats in about 15 minutes, and remove uneaten insects.

Why is my leopard gecko not eating?

A new gecko may skip meals for a few days while settling in. Shedding, cooler temperatures, and the breeding season can also reduce appetite. If it stops eating for weeks and its tail gets thin, contact a reptile veterinarian.

Can two leopard geckos live together?

It is safest to house leopard geckos individually. Males will fight, and cohabitation can lead to stress, competition for food, and injury, even if they appear calm at first.

Getting started

If you are ready to bring one home, start with the setup first — long enclosure, three hides, a thermostat-controlled heat mat, a thermometer, calcium and vitamin supplements, and a water dish — and let temperatures stabilise for at least 24 hours before your gecko arrives.

For the everyday tools — digital thermometers, an infrared temperature gun, feeding tongs and a reptile-safe cleaner — see the types listed in our Accessories category.

This guide is general care information for beginners, not veterinary advice. If a gecko stops eating and loses weight, has stuck shed, or shows signs of illness, contact a reptile veterinarian promptly. Check the live shop for current animal and supply availability before you buy.